Palermo, Sicily was a gritty city full of architectural treasures and local gems hiding in plain sight. From Byzantine cathedrals to solid-gold rooms in old palazzos, the pouring rain throughout our weekend trip only seemed to complement the muted mood of the city. Food ranged from traditional pastas and cakes, to midnight arancini balls and even sheep’s spleen via street food vendors. A city with both street art-covered slums and an opulent opera experience, Palermo has far too much character to let slide under the radar.